Hi from west Texas

[DarkCurrent]

Hi everyone! Update 1.5

Alright peeps, sorry I haven't posted an update on my project, but I've been swapped at work and using every bit of spare time to install parts. I'll give just a quick over view of everything I've done up to this point. I will write a more detail installation of all the parts I installed tomorrow, I'm just exhausted now. I have installed all current parts that I've received and WOW.....this car feels and sounds like it eats mustangs and shits out cameros for breakfast....on a stock exhaust!!! I couldn't be happier with all the parts I've installed, a pain in the @#$ to install for a DIY no AC in the garage guy, but I did it. First, HUGE shout out to NGEN customs and performance for all the great and detailed videos he makes, he made most of my installs extremely easy to do. Second, PLEASE make sure you give yourself enough room between the turbo and the radiator as you can!!! This will save you time and most importantly skin from your arms and knuckles when you're trying to install the hot pipe on the turbo exhaust.

OK, so immediately after I put everything together and plugged the battery in I go a check engine light on. Of course I was expecting an error code for the down pipe, but instead I got 2 codes. If you guys know or can help me out with these error codes that would be greatly appreciated.

Error Codes:
P0300 - Random Misfire detected
P0033 - Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit / Open


Parts installed:
Forged BOV
EuroComplution vacuum lines
ATP catted down pipe with DEI titanium exhaust wrap
ATM FMIC
ATM Fender well intake
DFDD 1.4L boost leak fix (opted out of the EC boost leak fix)

[DarkCurrent]

Just make sure you have a healthy set of NGK SIK Laser Iridium plugs. Check with your tuner on what gap they want you to set, but it's typically between .024 to .028.
People swear by the Alfa 4C coil packs, but my opinion is that's an unnecessary expense until you find you have an issue. I've also heard that the 4C coilpacks don't seal quite as well as the OEM plugs letting oil/dirt into the plug.

Yeah, I'm going to get those spark plugs today and see if it removes the misfire code texanbrit. I'll start with those and wait to see if it works before thinking of buying coilpacks, though if I have to get some I might be going for the 500 Madness one's. Still trying to figure out the other error code and how to solve it, but I'll get to it after work today. Thanks for all the help

[texanbrit]

You could try disconnecting the battery and seeing if an ECU relearn will cure the P0033 code. Failing that it's pointing at the Forge BOV, so recheck that install. If necessary go back to stock and see if the issue persists.

P0300 is an annoying code as it's just indicates a random misfire, but it's not clear if it's one, some or all of the cylinders. Can be triggered by boost or evap leaks, PCV issues, general mood of the car etc. Typically when it's plugs or coils it throws a code up for specific cylinders (e.g. P0301).

[DannyG]

Hey guys,

This is Danny aka "DarkCurrent", I got locked out of my account almost 2 weeks ago and I couldn't figure how to reset my password. I had some help from one of the admins but still couldn't reset my password so I made another account. I haven't been idle these last couple of weeks and finally figured out those codes and I have no check engine light anymore

[DannyG]

You could try disconnecting the battery and seeing if an ECU relearn will cure the P0033 code. Failing that it's pointing at the Forge BOV, so recheck that install. If necessary go back to stock and see if the issue persists.

P0300 is an annoying code as it's just indicates a random misfire, but it's not clear if it's one, some or all of the cylinders. Can be triggered by boost or evap leaks, PCV issues, general mood of the car etc. Typically when it's plugs or coils it throws a code up for specific cylinders (e.g. P0301).

Hi Texanbrit,

I solved both issues with the help you provided, thanks by the way.

First, P0301 random misfire I solved it with new spark plugs. When I removed the old ones they were in really bad shape, 2 of them had a lot of build up around the diode tip, a 3rd one had a little bit of the tip "chip/broken". Once I replaced them with the NGK SIK plugs (.026 gap) that code went away, but the best part is the car runs MUCH better and it idles more stable now. I'm wondering that those might of been the factory plugs since the car has 51k miles.

P0033 - Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit / Open. Now this one took me a bit to figure out but when I did I felt really silly not thinking about it right off the bat. Well...long story short it was the spring inside the BOV. When I installed it, I installed it with the factory yellow spring and never thought about changing it. So after 10hrs of removing it installing the factory one back on, then noticing that the code went away immediately I new for sure it was the BOV. So reinstalled it and double check the O-rings were not damaged or pinched when I installed it, I turned on the car and the code came back on. So after kicking by bumper and scratching it I had my buddy get in the car and rev it while I checked for leaks. That's when I found or heard the leak at the BOV, the car wouldn't hold more that 6lbs of boost and you can hear the valve inside the BOV opening up with the pressure. Removed the cap and installed the blue spring and VOILA!!!! Code gone and no more leaks.

WoW....now finally my car is complete with all the current installs to date. I have ordered an exhaust and a few other parts Getting ready for my big purchase next month of the Tork tune and I think I found a tuner shop that is willing to let me use their Dyno. So hopefully I can get with the guys at Tork tune for a remote session and get my car to it's best.

I will update with pictures of all the installs along with comments and my feedback now that I have been driving it for several days later today. Right now off to a car show. Thanks again @texanbrit and everyone else for the help.

[texanbrit]

I'm glad you figured it all out and are running well. It always good when you have the Eureka moment!!!

[DannyG]

I'm glad you figured it all out and are running well. It always good when you have the Eureka moment!!!

Yes sir it does! I haven't stop driving it since then. I feel the limitations the car is putting on all the parts I installed @texanbrit, I most definitely need a tune because the car wants to give me more power but the ECU won't let it happen. Anyways, that will hopefully be solved next month.

[DannyG]

Update 2.0!!

Ok guys, like I said in a previous post I'm done installing the current parts I ordered. More to come but for now here's what I've done and my thoughts post install. Overall, I'm completely satisfied with all my installs, I noticed that I have hit the limit of the stock ECU because I can feel it restricting power and boost when I'm going hard with the car. Most definitely an after market tune is needed and I think I found what direction I'm going. The car feels more alive, much more responsive, pulls like crazy and idles much better.

Next up will be a Tork Tune, light weight pulley, Dunlap Direzza ZIII tires, an exhaust, and braces. Stay tunes for more updates!

Parts installed:
Forged BOV
EuroComplution vacuum lines
ATP catted down pipe with DEI titanium exhaust wrap
ATM FMIC
ATM Fender well intake
DFDD 1.4L boost leak fix (opted out of the EC boost leak fix)
NGK SIK spark plugs

Forge BOV - Not a difficult install, however, I had taken off the bumper so it made it much easier to access the side and bottom bolt. If you don't take the bumper it is still doable but it will be a very tight space to work in. The BOV sounds is amazing!!! I thought it would get annoying to hear it when driving normally but it you don't accelerate too much the BOV wont go off and that is great when you just want to drive with out getting too much attention.

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EuroComplution Vacuum Line kit - This install was confusion to figure out at first since no instructions came with it. All lines are numbered which was a life saver, however, once I figured out they have instructions for them on their website it made it a very simple and easy install. In my personal opinion I think this upgrade made the most difference on my boost holding much more stable. Before this install at open wide throttle my boost would bounce all over the place and now it hold boost much more stable.

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ATP catted down pipe with DEI titanium exhaust wrap - Another simple and straight forward install, I dipped the wrap in water then wrapped the down pipe and let it dry for a full 24hr. Then hit it with a high temperature silicone spray to seal in the wrap. This install made a huge performance and sound difference and so far I haven't got the CEL light but I'm expecting it anytime now since I have driven over 130 miles with it on.

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ATM Fender well intake - WOW What a difference it made for my AIT's and the sounds that come out of the intake are crazy awesome This install was more labor intensive since it took removing and relocating a lot of stuff. There isn't a step by step guide (that I could find) but the video that ATM has pretty much shows you what to do. There is a little bit of figuring out your self but not too complicated. I still need to figure out how to completely "Seal off" the intake for a more compressed area for air to come in but as you can see by the pictures it didn't come out too bad. I sealed off as much as I could with heavy duty gorilla tape and so far its holding pretty good. This area is super crowded and the the head light sits on the intake just a bit, not enough to rub through the intake but I will have to keep an eye on it. Oh...it looks like you will have to take off the intake to do an oil change since now its completely in the way of the filter.

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ATM FMIC - The BEST bang for your buck upgrade that is a must for your Abarth (FMIC wise), I cannot say how much the stock inter-cooler hinders the potential of the car. The stock IC is so restrictive and has many potential leak points, that needs to be one of the first upgrades to do in my opinion. Now it doesn't have to be an ATM FMIC but I do recommend an FMIC upgrade is a must. You will notice the difference immediately, the car is much more responsive and the turbo spools so much quicker. My "butt dyno" said this upgrade made the most noticeable power difference of all my installs. Again, all this is just my opinion and insight of my installs. I highly recommend you make as much space between the turbo and radiator as you can because installing the turbo pipe is going to be the most difficult part of this installation. I loosened the support brackets holding the radiator and also the bumper support brackets to get more space between the turbo and radiator. I didn't take any pictures of the ATM install and I don't know why, but you can see it here already installed. I will take more pictures of it later.

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[DannyG]

Hello everyone and Happy New Year!!!

I'm back at it again with buying parts and wanted to give you an update. I've been very happy with the upgrades I've installed so far and have had no issues with daily driving or check engine lights. So over the last couple of months I have been busy ordering parts and installing them as they get in and so far I have received and installed an MPX light weight underdrive pulley, PTP turbo blanket, Circuit Werks exhaust, Forge wastegate actuator, madness hood vents, AAD shifter, and my favorite so far is the Tork Tune stage 1 with pops and bangs. I'm loving the way this car is coming out and that Tork Tune!!!! That Tork tune really took everything that I have installed and made them work perfectly together. John at Tork is a great guy and really takes the time (when his not on the dyno ) to help explain things to you. He helped me out and even explained certain things about my tune to help maximize the cars potential and he has a fantastic support team when he is not available. Anyways, here's a couple of pictures of the parts and a little but of an explanation. Yes, I know I haven't done any body stiffing or suspension upgrades but parts are ordered and on the way!!!

Parts on order:
Tork valve springs
El gato chassis braces
Neu-f sway bar
Neu-f torsion bar


New parts installed:
Tork Tune
AAD shifter
Forge wategate actuator
Madness dual hood extractor vents
MPX light weight pulley
PTP turbo blanket
Circuit Werks exhaust

Parts installed:
Forged BOV
EuroComplution vacuum lines
ATP catted down pipe with DEI titanium exhaust wrap
ATM FMIC
ATM Fender well intake
DFDD 1.4L boost leak fix (opted out of the EC boost leak fix)
NGK SIK spark plugs


The Tork Tune is mental!! The instructions are easy to read and follow and if you have any questions John or his team are more that happy to help with the download. Took me about 45 minutes to download the tune because I did it on a cold day and it took a long time to get the engine to temperature. But once it was all said and done it was a totally different car.

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AAD shifter took me about 30-40 minutes to install because it took for ever to take the stock shifter off. I didn't want to damage anything. Gents, this is by far one of the first if not the first upgrades that needs to be done to the car. The difference in shifts compared to the stock shifter is night and day, the shifts between gears with the AAD shifter are quick and accurate.

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The Forge wastegate actuator was another easy and quick install to put on. Note - I did have to drill the holes that are on the turbo a bit larger to be able to put the forge actuator in. It was very simple and PLEASE make sure to be careful as the metal is super soft and you can mess it up. I started with doing 2 full twist to the arm once you align the hole of the arm with the flange and went to test drive it. I notice it releasing a bit early so drove back to the house and did one more full twist for a total of 3 and that did the job. Also installed the PTP turbo blanket which was a super easy install.

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MPX light weight underdrive pulley was again a super easy install and the weight difference between the stock one and the MPX one you can really feel when you pick them both up. Huge weight reductions and so far no issues with using my AC with the light weight pulley, it still blows really cold air at a good force.

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The madness Dual Extractor Hood Port System vents. This install was very nerve racking for me since it involve cutting your hood. But again it comes with good instructions and a diagram to put on your hood for placement. Once you double, triple check, get your neighbor to check for you and then consider whether its worth it or not to cut your hood... then you cut it!!! The vents say they come primed and ready for spray but they are not smooth other the primer, I had to sand it to a smooth finish in order for it not to show all the dips and imperfections it come with. Other than that I cut my hood with a Dremel, I found it super easy to follow the line and make the turns easily. I don't have a picture of the finish install and I'll upload one as soon as possible.

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Circuit Werks install was simple and made the notes to the exhaust a bit more deeper and it is definitely loader than stock. I plus for me Can be a bit overwhelming when driving for long periods of time but not too obnoxious. Don't have a pic for this one, I don't know why

[texanbrit]

Sounds like you're having a ton of fun and you've definitely picked wisely on your mods.

I love that shift knob. I bet that is a joy to drive with!

So are you all done now?