How to replace the multi-air brick safely

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texanbrit
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How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by texanbrit » Thu Jan 09, 2020 3:17 pm

This was originally posted in the Facebook group, but I forgot to put the credit here. I can't find the original post, but thank you whoever you are.

So like I promised I experimented with a MA brick install on an engine I have to attempt to replicate the "bent valve" issue a few people have had. My initial hunch was correct, it's an alignment issue when installing the brick due to the MA plungers extending when the brick is placed on the carrier assembly.
Attached are three photos.
In photograph one you will notice there are 3 lines.
*note, this brick is sitting in its alignment pins*
multiair1.jpg
multiair1.jpg (145.93 KiB) Viewed 10709 times
The two lines running parallel represent the pitch left or right in which the MA brick is sitting. My first hunch was that improper pitch could cause the valves to bend. this is not the case.
The second curved line to the left of image one represents roll. Roll forward or back towards the camera. This is the critical indication. If the brick is rolled too far backwards or too far forwards, you will have plunger to valve misalignment.
Due to the tip of the plunger and the tip of the valves smallness, this can happen quite easily. Picture 2 indicates that the MA brick is rolled too far to the rear (even though the brick is aligned on its dowel pins)
Now, a lot of positions will also occur in different variances depending on the current rotational stop state the cam is in. I played with this too. Aligning the rollers in different positions across all the valves and the results didn't change.
multiair2.jpg
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in picture two you will see two red circles. the bottom circle roughly indicates the plunger tip position and the top indicates valve tip. If I were to begin the tightening process without visually checking the plunger position, upon completely tightening the brick the plungers would put a lateral force on the valve, thus bending it.
In picture three you can see how I remedied this issue.
When installing the brick, insert 4 bolts into the corner positions and hand start until you have a few threads in.
at this point, visually check the positions of your MA plungers. use a bright flashlight as it is hard to see. for this instant i lifted the back of the ma brick to align the plungers as you can see in photo 3.
multiair3.jpg
multiair3.jpg (41.18 KiB) Viewed 10709 times
while holding the brick, tighten the front two bolts nearest the cam on each side evenly. I did 3 turns on one side and 3 turns on the other.
Now you can also watch the sides of the MA brick nearest the mating surface on the carrier to ensure the brick is seating perfectly level.
This is how valves are being bent.
I attempted this install 5 different times in as many janky ways as i could and i had the same result every time.
Cheers. Hope this helps anyone removing an MA brick.
*YOU MUST ENSURE THE MA BRICK SITS DOWN PERFECTLY EVEN* constantly do visual checks of your actual valve contact points and plungers as they will extend fully when the brick is placed in the carrier for tightening*
2013 Abarth 500c (NGen Turbo'd) - Isabella
2012 500 Pop (broken, engine rebuild on hold) - Popabella
2014 500L (Daily workhorse) - The Hulk
2013 Abarth 500 (broken engine, current project) - Abby

hardboiled
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by hardboiled » Sat Jan 18, 2020 12:55 am

Thanks for these details, which I hope I never need. I appreciate your time invested.

mr16valve
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by mr16valve » Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:50 am

Great write up. Thanks for this information.

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MadFiat
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by MadFiat » Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:30 pm

Nice.
2015 Rosso Abarth 5MT - MAD FIAT - EC Phase 2 + Supporting Mods
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sportfan
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by sportfan » Thu Jun 03, 2021 1:57 pm

Paul how about any tips on bleeding the brick. I tried everything and I could on the web without any luck.

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texanbrit
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by texanbrit » Fri Jun 04, 2021 9:13 am

I've always just cranked and cranked until it worked. Hasn't let me down yet......
2013 Abarth 500c (NGen Turbo'd) - Isabella
2012 500 Pop (broken, engine rebuild on hold) - Popabella
2014 500L (Daily workhorse) - The Hulk
2013 Abarth 500 (broken engine, current project) - Abby

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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by sportfan » Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:15 pm

Did you pull your fuel pump fuse or unplug the injectors until you got oil up top ? I'm thinking my oil pump lost prime .

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texanbrit
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by texanbrit » Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:12 am

sportfan wrote: Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:15 pm Did you pull your fuel pump fuse or unplug the injectors until you got oil up top ? I'm thinking my oil pump lost prime .
Not had to, even with the engine swap, and the alleged low pressure issue, the Pop fired up just had to crank it for an uncomfortable amount of time. Greg says that you can prime the pump with oil in the filter housing (see the video at 17:30).

Last edited by texanbrit on Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: fix the youtube link
2013 Abarth 500c (NGen Turbo'd) - Isabella
2012 500 Pop (broken, engine rebuild on hold) - Popabella
2014 500L (Daily workhorse) - The Hulk
2013 Abarth 500 (broken engine, current project) - Abby

sportfan
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by sportfan » Tue Jun 08, 2021 8:22 pm

I have already tried that without any luck. I may try it again tomorrow.

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texanbrit
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Re: How to replace the multi-air brick safely

Post by texanbrit » Thu Jul 22, 2021 3:03 pm

For future reference this is the official tool to hold the brick correctly while it is removed/installed.
D7441D71-AE77-4099-9144-44E10FDB6091.jpeg
D7441D71-AE77-4099-9144-44E10FDB6091.jpeg (70.32 KiB) Viewed 8565 times
This company has an aftermarket one that is "only" $599, OEM one is $1000+.
https://www.freedomracing.com/10259b-en ... 0259a.html
2013 Abarth 500c (NGen Turbo'd) - Isabella
2012 500 Pop (broken, engine rebuild on hold) - Popabella
2014 500L (Daily workhorse) - The Hulk
2013 Abarth 500 (broken engine, current project) - Abby

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